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Traffic jam in the Alps – what is the solution?

March 27th, 2012 | No Comments | Posted in Rants&Raves

Have you been on Mont Blanc? Have you had a good and calm night, or you were „suffering” under the bench? If you go to a mountain, you have to forget about your comfy bed. Is it really obligate? If you have been up there or you just planning, probably you know the actualities. No room, uncomfortable night, in turn you should get some rest, before your summit day. Certainly, there are other ways to solve this problem. Really? Any idea?

The old Gouter-hut

 

I have a few. You can climb outside of the season. In late September, but rather in October. If you are a bit lucky, the nice weather holds on, and you pay less too. The trip could be even better, when you climb with your three friend, not with 124 „aliens”. Sounds good. What do you think?

The new hut, above 3800m

 An other option if you wait until the new hut opens. Actually, it’s rather a mountain hotel. The guys are working hard, maybe you can sleep there in this year. Officialy it has room for 120 climbers, but as far as I know the conditions, 200 will sleep there.:) It’s as eco-friendly, as possible, everything will be recycled. Water used for cooking and washing will be redirected into the toilets and „vica versa.” No, I’m just kidding. So honestly, it’s really a good thing, it’s a „self-supporing buliding.” Solar panels, wind turbines, biomass energy – as you can see 6 million (euros) is a nice lump sum. Don’t have to worry, it has a great panoramic view, and hopefully a few people can sleep more than 10 minutes, before the summit-day.

Are you plannig to sleep up here?

Not a space station, it's the new hut

Rebirth or just a subsequent birth on the mountain

March 20th, 2012 | No Comments | Posted in Rants&Raves

Our forthcoming post is about two young adventurers and their odyssey in Bosnia. It may sounds like a cock and bull story, but it’s telling the truth and that makes it gripping. The curtain rises on a flat afternoon, when the two decided to go and „disover” the Balkans. Both were mountain maniacs, and hunger for the real tough adventures. But not everything turned out as they had planned.

 

…we have started off the Balkan. Our aim was Bosnia’s highest peak Mount Maglic and the sorrounding wild nature. We knew almost nothing about these mountains, but that’s why it was so exciting. We had real and serious experience in mountaineering, from previous and similar peaks, so I can tell – without being pompous – that we were prepared for this mountain.
We have spent the nights on the mountain, next to a deserted hut, in a tent. The first morning we have decided to climb up to the top, and we planned and packed for one day. Therfore we had all the equipments for a wintery day, but not for a night or an other day. The terrain wasn’t easy, we got deep mud and soft wet snow  intermittently. Thanks to that we have reached the foggy summit relatively late, but at the highest point of BOSNIA, we „had to” shoot some pictures with the huge flag of SERBIA(!). For the descent we chose a shorter track, which leads to a wide woodsman path.
Here and there we could follow the red star signs painted on the rocks, but the fog and the deep slippery snow was a real pain in the ass. After a few minutes of descent, suddenly I’ve slipped off and in the next moment I was slediging as quick as lightning towards a big and sharp rock.
It was only about 2-3 seconds, but I had the feeling, that I have got time to consider my next „steps”. I pushed my ice axe with all my bodyweight downwards to the deep and loose snow, but it couldn’t stop me. On a sudden, I have felt a blunt hit on my boots, so I know the rock held me. I was lucky.
It was growing dark, but we could followed the track in the light of our headlamps. After a few minutes the track ended in a serried mountain pine forest. We have tried to get around, but it was dense. We considered our chances, and finally we decided to stay for the night, we thought it’s the best, because we could lost each other, or someone could get hurt. So we have stucked in the mountain, about 2000m high, and the temperature was somewher at the freezing-point. For the next 12 hours our only hope was an isolation-emergency blanket, in the icecold rain. Every two hours was a piece of heaven, when we could afford a cup of hot tea..(ok, it was only hot water). Nothing but the wind was missing from the story.
The high quility gore-tex jackets and pants also gave up in the heavy rain, so bit by bit our bodies started to cool down. In the dark night we were thinking, how could we survive in this situtation.. My friend was telling a story, about a mountaineer who has stucked in the Andes, without any food, but he survived, he got out with his broken leg. That story gave me strength, but we daren’t sleep, beacuse we thought, we wouldn’t wake up again. Shakily we were waiting in the rain, under a mountain pine. We knew that, it’s unnecessary to call anybody, beacuse there is no mountain rescue team in the country.
At the same time I have realized that, we are only three of us. My freind and me, against the wild cruel mountain. The night was long and cold, we were swapping the stories, and thinking about our loved ones. If you spend a night on a mountain and you don’t sleep a minute, you will know how fantastic is to hear the first bird’s voice at dawn. That feeling filled us up, to countinue our way back to the camp. Since then I remember to almost every second, every move from that night. I will never forget the miserable moments with the wet stove, which didn’t want to flame up, the  „timetable” for the food and the drink, the last match-stick and the nylon shopping bag – which was our bed for that night.
Thinking back I also remember – very slowly but – the night was gone, and we knew that we survied, and it’s all right now. We have packed all the stuff and we walked back to our camp in a few hours. We were hardly distressed, so we slept a few hours. It was unexpressed, but we knew that 25th of October is our second birthday. Since then we celberate it every year, and we are still climbing mountains.
I can tell you, my first meeting with Mount Maglic was a bit acerbic, but also unforgettable, and on the way back home, I have confessed to myself, I have fallen in love with this place, and I’ll be back in one day.

What do you say, where did they make a bungle? What would you do in a situation like this? Were they well preapred for everything? Is it even possible to be prepared for everything in high mountains? Can you draw the lesson from the story?

 

 

Ain’t Climbing Elbrus This Year. Hello Damavand!

June 30th, 2011 | 3 Comments | Posted in Mountain Guides

We decided to call it off. No Elbrus this year. The situation is just too unreliable and the area may be closed when our July climb comes. So instead, we’ve been suggesting our clients to go to Iran’s highest peak, Damavand. Yeah, just go climb Damavand this year – it’s fantastic and it’s cheaper than Elbrus. It’s a bit easier due to there being less snow, less cold… despite Damavand having a slightly higher summit.

Why climb when you can ride Damavand? Nah, you can't really do that.

I swear there is NO photoshop involved in the above picture. The sky really is THAT blue. So, which do you think is a better ‘party’: Damavand or Elbrus?

New Pics for The Grossglockner Climb

June 22nd, 2011 | No Comments | Posted in Mountaineering - Alps

Hey guys, we just beefed up our Grossglockner Climb page with a few new fancy pics. Check out the Climbing Grossglockner page on our website. Better yet, check out the mountain for real.

The Grossglockner Climb

Grossglockner is Austria’s highest peak at 3797 meters and is probably the most-climbed mountain. If you want a good climb in the summer and avoid crowds, try climbing on a weekday. Otherwise, start out from the hut as early as possible. That way you’ll only run into traffic jams on the way down. If you’re a gnarly climber and can handle UIAA III-IV ridges with scary drops, go for the Stüdlgrat variant.

Afghanistan, the Wakhan-Corridor

May 16th, 2011 | 1 Comment | Posted in Rants&Raves

This is probably the shortest post on this blog, ever. Check out this stunning trek to a country with a very bad brand.

Mt. Damavand Climb – the Cultural Excitement

April 29th, 2011 | 1 Comment | Posted in Mountain Guides
Fun jeep rides around Damavand...

Fun jeep rides in Iranian mountains...

 

One of the most unrecognized high peak treks on the globe is Iran’s Mt. Damavand (5671 m). Just yesterday, we threw a really sweet Mt Damavand climb package on the website. We’re pretty good at doing Iran; Daniel, our mountain guide has been to and travelled accross the country on several occasions – mostly doing photography and guiding. More »

Mt. Elbrus Climbing – Some Questionmarks Arise

March 7th, 2011 | No Comments | Posted in Mountaineering - Alps, Rants&Raves

…but nonetheless, we are optimistic!

Climbing Mt Elbrus

Approaching Elbrus summit with the lower, eastern summit in the background

It’s been written at several places that Islamic terrorists killed foreigners and exploded bombs at ski resorts near Mt Elbrus. The area is currently closed for climbing.

That’s bad news for the thousands who want to climb the peak every year. Like us. We have a fun and very successful Mt Elbrus climb every year. It’s set to take off early July. We may postpone it to August, however. We really hope the Russian secret service will be able to clean out the area and make it safe again. It’s really a question of prestiege for them as well, since the 2014 Winter Olympics are set to take place in nearby Sochi.

Let’s hope for things to settle very very soon! Needless to say, we’ll keep you updated.

 

Top 4 Reasons You Fail to Climb the Peak of Your Dreams – Part I

January 3rd, 2011 | No Comments | Posted in Mountaineering - Alps, Rants&Raves
Climbing Rysy, High-Tatras

Approaching the summit of Rysy in the High-Tatras

To kick things off for the new year, the boys and girls at ClimbBigMountains.com have decided to compile a list of some observations from the past 5 years. On what? Why people we know have failed to reach their desired summits. We’ll leave out the obvious ones, like bad weather because you can help that with a little planning. The list has a few surprising items and tips on how to overcome them…  Here is part 1 with a very much overlooked reason: More »

Ice Climbing in Chamonix, Scotland and Elsewhere

September 17th, 2010 | 1 Comment | Posted in Mountaineering - Alps

I’m really in the mood for ice climbing now. It’s always like this in the fall. You know, rocks are always wet from rains, snow is a few more weeks off… But it’s always the ice I yearn for the most.

I was drooling over the Petzl movie below, just yesterday. It features – along with funny French dudes – speedclimbing sensation Ueli Steck doing their things on Ben Nevis:

Scottish Icetrip – English from Petzl-sport on Vimeo.

OK, this is mixed climbing, which is even more fun.
More »

Ski touring @8000m+

September 13th, 2010 | No Comments | Posted in Ski Touring

There are only a handful of the 14 eight thousander mountains which are skiable almost all the way from top to bottom. Cho Oyu is one of them and it is also one of the “easier” 8000 meter mountains on Earth.

Of course, we have the “first ski descent of K2” and “skiing Everest” sorts of news… As many of us know, rock is unpleasant, if not impossible to ski on and these descents are only skied in a small proportion. The brave adventurers are often forced to unmount and tie the skis on their backpacks and rapell… But when we talk about skiing Cho Oyu, you’ll know that it’s real from top to bottom (not that Everest/K2 descents aren’t real – hands down for anyone who carves turns at those altitudes)… Cho Oyu can be tour skied almost all the way up and down.

Ski touring at such altitudes is pretty demanding as you can imagine – it’s actually tougher on your body to carve turns in deep snow or frozen firn, than it is to slowly inch your way in crampons on the ridge. Plus, on the ascent, you have all the mounting/unmounting to do which also takes a whole lot of steam.

Also, when you tourski way up there, you run into a whole lot of issues with gear. Especially footwear. High altitude climbing boots are pretty good already with insulation and keeping your feet dry, but the same cannot be said for ski touring boots. So you need overboots and those sorts of things. So it’s really a lot more complicated.

As you might imagine, the whole equipment issue ends up being a weight issue. When every gram counts, it’s a real pain in the ass to have to carry a 1.7-1.8 kg skiset on your back, heavy skiboots on your feet and the extra “gaiters on steroids” for protecting your feet. Not to mention the wind occasionally catching the skis every now and then.

But then, in deep snow when the slope isn’t too steep, you advance with less effort. You’re also a lot faster on the way down (unless you’re forced to rapell a lot and carry your skis) which adds a great deal of safety to the descent. What diminishes that presumed safety advantage is the condition that instead of going on in a group where you are near one another and can easily help, ski descents are more lonely. At this altitude, if the top guy takes a spill and the others have skied down a few hundred meters, it’s a real crappy situation if they have to climb back up to assist.

The whole reason I’m typing this post now is beacause on of our mountain guides, Laci Mécs is over on Cho Oyu right now, going for a ski descent, so I thought it’s a timely thing to share with you some of the issues we discussed before his departure. Wishing him and the rest of the team the best of luck and plenty of backwind for the descent… and wishing you a long ski touring season:

Dan Bergstein